Pruning spring flowering shrubs is a task that sometimes gets forgotten in all the excitement of herbaceous perennials bursting into flower and picking the first strawberries.
When shrubs are grown for their spring flowers, they require different timing and technique to “ordinary pruning” (if there is such a thing). However, for the purposes of this article, I have presumed that the shrub is not in need of major restorative pruning, nor newly planted.
For the basics for successful and safe pruning, I’ll point you in the direction of a previous blog “How to Prune Correctly – Things You Need to Know” (link is below). However, it is still worth asking the following: –
Regarding larger shrubs: –
- Is there a Tree Preservation Order?
- Do you live in a Conservation Area or National Park?
- Is the shrub too large to safely prune by myself?
- Can I prune only using hand tools?
The former may require special permission. The latter relate to health and safety; it may be a two person job, or require special training.
Plus: –
- Does the shrub bear edible fruit?
- Is it part of a hedge, with birds nesting, or a wildlife habitat?
- Do you want a formal or informal look?
And my favourite: –
- Does the shrub need pruning?

Garden Teacher Tip:
Some gardeners may find it helpful to colour code shrubs to remind them when they should be pruned.
Spring flowering shrubs, are usually considered to be those which bloom March – June. Those which bear edible fruits and berries are treated differently and not covered here. But basically, if you prune off the stems which have flowered, you wont get any fruit!
It was college students needing extra pruning lessons who first got me into “teaching you how to garden in your own garden”. It’s still a popular topic for one-off gardening sessions and forms a part of both Practical Gardening for Beginners and A Year in Your Garden courses.

Pruning Spring Flowering Shrubs
Why?
To –
- increase / maintain good flowering show next year
- maintain the shape of the shrub
- improve the overall shape, perhaps where it’s become to big for its allotted space
- and importantly, to remove dead, diseased or dying stems
When?
The fundamental rule is to prune after flowering to allow next year’s flowering shoots to grow. This is because spring flowering shrubs bloom on the growth they made after flowering the previous year. For example, Forsythia, Philadelphus.
How?
Have a look at the shape. Is the growth predominantly rising from the base with a group of long shoots that terminate in flowering stems? Are they upright or arching? Or does the shrub have fewer shoots near the base but more branching stems with flowers?
Pruning spring flowering shrubs, like drawing, requires a lot of observation. Ornamental spring flowering shrubs may be grown primarily for their blooms, but for most of the year what is on show is foliage (summer and autumn) and stems (winter). Therefore, the shape of the shrub is an important consideration.
Firstly remove dead, diseased and dying stems. Then step back and examine the size and shape of the shrub. There may be a mix of shoots with spent flowers and non-flowering ones.
Now comes the part which is either really easy or a bit tricky. Without seeing the shrub, and knowing the wide variety, not just of types but the way they grow when left unpruned, it is difficult for me to be definitive in exactly what you prune off. Where I can be decisive is in saying, if you’re really not sure, ask! Reasonably confident? Carry on but don’t get carried away.

Pruning Spring Flowering Shrubs Back to a Bud
You have two options. Where there are two buds opposite each other on the stem, make a horizontal cut. Where the buds grow alternately up the stem, find one heading in the desired direction for new growth and cut at the same angle. Both types of pruning cut should be approximately ½ cm above the bud.
Shoots with old flowers may be cut back to a healthy bud. This gives a good shape on the wider branching shrubs. For younger plants and those needing minimal pruning such as camellias, this may be all that is needed. Where growth is predominantly from the base, just do a few for ‘tidying up’ purposes.
Is it Coppicing or Cutting Hard Back?
Where the shrub has tall stems and arching stems emanating mainly from the base, then take out some of the older stems in their entirety. This is not coppicing, as might be carried out on Cornus, as not all the stems are removed. Up to a third of the shoots can be removed, depending on the size and health of the shrub; pruning out the oldest first as these are the least productive. Cut to 2 -3 buds from the base. This will encourage new shoots for flowers next spring.

Pruning Wall Shrubs and Climbers
The simple difference between the two is this – wall shrubs do not naturally climb, climbers do – for once the clue is in the name! Of course some plants called walls shrubs are actually climbers, or naturally climbing wall shrubs. For example, Wisteria is often called a wall shrub but it is a climber.
Garden Teacher Tip:
For pruning purposes, it may help you to look at how the plant stems are growing. Are they pushing out away from the wall and looking more shrub-like? If so they are most likely a wall shrub not a climber.
Spring flowering wall shrubs
Spring flowering wall shrubs are generally pruned as per shrubs above. For example, Jasminum nudiflorum, winter flowering jasmine.
Spring flowering climbers
Clematis and Wisteria are the main ones and are simple to do (despite many gardener’s fears). Help is at hand – see the separate articles on pruning Clematis and Wisteria to help you out – the links are below.

Pruning Hedges
Hedges may contain spring flowering shrubs. Although some of the above tips are relevant, the shrub needs to be considered as part of the whole hedge.
Pruning should take into account nesting birds. It is an offence under the Wildlife & Countryside Act 1981 to damage or destroy the nest of any wild bird while it is in use or being built. As the bird nesting season is usually considered to run from March to August, you can perceive there may be issues with pruning spring flowering shrubs within a hedge. This topic is best considered as part of hedge maintenance.
Pruning Spring Flowering Shrubs – Hand Tools – Secateurs
A longer on tools to use in pruning spring flowering shrubs and trees is in the Pruning Basics article. Here, I just wanted to clarify a confusion that I’ve found many times at a first gardening lesson – the differences between types of secateurs.
Bypass secateurs are scissor shaped and best for cutting living stems and branches as they give a sharp, clean cut.
Anvil secateurs are best for dead wood, or where a slight crushing of the stem doesn’t matter.
There are also long handled secateurs for reaching into dense shrubs with fairly slim stems. These have a different action to loppers which require you to use both hands to manipulate them.

Happy pruning!
If you would like help with choosing and pruning spring flowering shrubs in your garden, do get in touch. Plews is able to offer you Gardening Lessons, Garden Consultancy Visit, Garden Design or Planting Design, to suit your needs. Please check out relevant pages on the website for more details
And for further gardening advice and inspiration, check out Plews Potting Shed blogs, including the selection below – You could come and find us on Instagram Facebook and Pinterest too!
Related Gardening articles you may enjoy from our Award Winning Blog
How to Prune Correctly – Things You Need to Know
Pruning Clematis – When, How and Why
Pruning Wisteria
When to Prune Roses
Winter Pruning in Your Garden
5 Scented Flowering Shrubs for a Midsummer Garden
Scented Shrubs for Christmas Morning
Coppiced Trees and Shrubs in Your Garden
9 Shrubs and Trees for Stunning Autumn Foliage
Why has my Blue Hydrangea turned Pink?
Buddleia – Butterfly Bush or Beast?
Hybrid Tea Roses










