Forcing bulbs for Christmas flowers whether as a present to give to others or to keep for yourself can be a satisfying activity. And receiving a scented Hyacinth is definitely a favourite Christmas present for many of us!
Although it may initially look like a lot of stages to go through to achieve the scented, colourful result, for most of the time the bulb is doing the work for you. It’s also a project that children can help with. Perhaps they could grow a Hyacinth or scented Narcissus (Daffodil) to give to their teacher or grandmother: a home-grown present shows that extra care has been taken and that is always appreciated.
You can successfully grow at home both Hyacinths and Narcissus so that they flower at Christmas. This blog is a ‘how to’ grow them, with tips for resolving some of the common issues people have.
Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) and other exotic blooms need some different techniques to Hyacinths and Narcissus. These latter are hardy spring flowering bulbs in temperate climates, which is why they’re easier as forcing bulbs. See bloglink below on Amaryllis.
How do we start encouraging a spring flowering bulb to flower three months early? The first thing to do is to trick the bulb into thinking that spring has sprung in mid-winter…
Buying your forcing bulbs
Buy prepared bulbs, sometimes called ‘indoor bulbs’ from nurseries and garden centres in August, September and October. You can also order bulbs for forcing earlier in the year if you’re organised. This will give you more choice of variety.
NB – You may need to wear gloves when handling bulbs, as they can cause an allergic skin reaction or irritation.
Growing media and potting compost for forced bulbs
You can buy special bulb fibre compost at the same time as buying your bulbs, but its not critical to use this.
A more economical suggestion is to use the spent compost that your summer bedding was growing in. This will be low in nutrients, but as the bulb has all the nutrients it needs to flower that doesn’t matter.
The essential thing to remember is that the compost needs to be free draining as bulbs hate to sit in water. This is particularly important if your container doesn’t have drainage holes. I’d suggest the first time you try this to use a container with drainage holes (why make life difficult?)
If you’re using garden soil, it’s generally a good idea to add some sand, grit or perlite to the mix. But if the bulbs are to be inside, you may prefer to use a potting compost so you don’t end up with slugs in the airing cupboard (it has been known!)
You can also grow forced bulbs in a special bulb vase, where the roots are visible, and dangle in water. This can be fun for children, as they can see that the roots grow first, and then the top growth. See the section lower down on this technique.
Planting your Bulbs
Firstly wet the bulb fibre, potting compost or soil and place a layer at the bottom of the bowl or pot.
Sit the bulbs onto the compost. If you’re planting a few to a container they can be close together but not touching each other or the sides of the bowl.
Fill around the bulbs with compost until just the tips of the bulbs are showing. Watering will be more effective if there is a 1cm gap between the top of the soil and the rim of the container.
Chilling out
Once they’re planted up, both Hyacinth and Narcissus need a cool period in a dark place. This is to fool the bulbs into thinking its winter time and is a critical part of the forcing process.
The Hyacinths need 8 – 10 weeks of cool conditions; the Narcissus need 6-8 weeks.
These timings are approximate as it will depend a little on how cool and dark your chosen place is and the variety of Hyacinth or Narcissus. Even bulbs of the same variety bought at the same time and treated identically may develop at slightly different rates; this is normal.
Where is a good cool and dark place for forcing bulbs for Christmas flowers?
- Your fridge is going to be too cool, and there will be light every time the door is opened.
- Your airing cupboard is too warm at this stage, even though it’s dark.
- Do you have a dry cellar? This is generally an ideal location as the temperature in a cellar used for storage tends to have a regular, slightly cool temperature, and will be dark.
- Do you have a garage? Garages tend to be used more frequently, so the light and temperature will not be consistent. But it can still be a good place.
- Do you have a potting shed or garden shed? As long as you‘re not using a heater in here, a shed, like a garage, can be used for this stage of bulb forcing.
- If your chosen spot is cool, but perhaps not as dark as the bulbs need, wrap the potted up bulbs in their containers into a black bin liner (or two). This will reduce the amount of light getting to the bulbs.
Forcing Bulbs – the long wait
This is where the bulbs do the work and you can relax. Make a note by the kettle to check on the bulbs every 4-5 days or you’ll forget.
Checking the bulbs progress is a good task for the children. Depending on their age and inclination, they could make a calendar with a flower or a watering can on the days they need to check on the bulbs and stick it on the wall.
Water the bulbs if the potting compost is dry, but don’t overwater at this stage. If your bulbs are in containers without drainage holes, you may need to tip them on their sides after watering so the excess water can drain off.
When you can see the first green shoots you are allowed to be excited, but keep the bulbs in their cool dark place until the shoots are a couple of inches tall. If you have a few flowering bulbs in one container and they’re growing at different rates, I would suggest bringing them out of the dark when the ‘average’ shoot height is 1 ½ – 2 inches, or 4 – 5 cm.
NB – the leaves will not be very green as they are not in the light – at this stage that is normal.
Some like it hot…
Bringing your bulbs in to the light and warm needs to be done in stages. Hyacinths need about 3 weeks for this stage, Narcissus need more like 2 ½ weeks.
- Firstly bring the containers into a coolish room, lit, but away from bright light initially. The leaves will start to green up.
- After a few days move to a warmer, brighter location.
- Your flowering bulbs will not like being over a radiator or in a draught: indulge them or they won’t flower for you.
- Keep watering regularly. The best results are gained from creating a humid atmosphere, so if you can, stand the pots on a gravel tray which you keep watered.
Check for developing flower buds. See problem solving tips below.
Forcing bulbs by growing in water
For individual bulbs, you can use –
- special bulb-forcing jars (my favourite, look out for vintage ones during the year)
- any vase – set the bulb on a grid of wire at the water line
Or grow a group together in a wider vase or bowl – place glass chips or pebbles in the base and sit the bulbs on these.
How to force bulbs in water
- Fill the vase or jar with water so that it just touches the basal plate of the bulb. For preference use distilled water or rain water, but its not crucial. The moisture will start roots forming.
- Place the vase in a cool, dark place. After a few days you ‘ll see roots. Once you do, keep the water line below the bulb, ie away from the basal plate, to prevent it from rotting. The roots will of course need to be in the water.
- Keep the vase in the cool, dark until there are a couple of inches of leaf growth, then move out as per above instructions.
Frequent Problems with forcing bulbs for Christmas flowers
Different growth rates when the shoots are forming in the cool and dark stage.
If the tallest shoot is more than two inches tall and is beginning to look very pale before all the shoots are at least one inch tall you are going to have to go with the stage of growth that the majority are at.
Bear in mind how many weeks to Christmas though, as you do want scented flowers for then!
If the leaves are growing faster than the flower buds.
Move the pots to a cooler place and keep them in the dark for a couple of days. This should even up the growth.
Flopping stems and leaves.
This is generally about watering – either too much or too little.
However, some of the ‘paperwhite’ Daffodils can be prone to this due to their taller growth. One solution is to grow these in deeper containers, to encourage deeper, more supportive roots.
Another solution is to support the flopping stems with decorative cocktail sticks – then it looks like part of the display!
Forcing bulbs for Christmas flowers – some good varieties
Hyacinth ‘delft blue’ – think of blue and white Dutch tiles
Narcissus papyraceus ‘ziva’ – one of the ‘paperwhite’ Narcissi
Hyacinth ‘Marie’ – dark purple – two reasons why I grow this one!
Narcissus ‘tete a tete’ – a dwarf variety
And finally…
The delights of forcing bulbs for Christmas flowers is showcased in the end result, so I hope you enjoy the colour and scent of your flowering Hyacinths and Narcissus over Christmas and New Year.
Or alternatively, rest in the warm glow of the pleasure others are having from your home-grown scented gift. And for those of you who like Christmas – why not download our eBook “Christmas and Yule in Your Garden“?
For further gardening advice and inspiration, check out Plews Potting Shed blogs, including the selection below and our monthly Tipsheet – You could come and find us on Instagram Pinterest and Facebook too.
If you would like help with learning more about your garden and gardening, why not ask about our bespoke Gardening Lessons, where your classroom is actually your own garden. We can help you learn gardening basics, and also show you how to plan an ornamental border or kitchen garden
Related Gardening articles you may enjoy from our Award Winning Blog
Flowering Bulbs
When to Plant Bulbs for Spring Flowers
Hippeastrum or Amaryllis? Christmas Flowering Bulbs
Daffodil Fact and Fiction plus Planting Ideas
Bulbs, Corms, Tubers, Rhizomes – What is the Difference?
Tips for Buying Bulbs in the Green
Christmas
Growing New Potatoes for Christmas Dinner
Could You Grow Your Own Christmas Pudding?
Darth Vader’s Christmas Gifts for Gardeners
12 Plants for the 12 Days of Christmas
